Bodrum and beyond (end May)

As the days ticked by we where before long lined up on the aft deck in our formal uniforms again, this time to wave the guests off. We had an unexpected boon. For the whole next month we would be without guests. We would of course still be working, but from Monday to Friday and with plenty of opportunity to explore terra firma.

Bodrum Marina

We had one last day ashore in the little village of Gocek, a place that had quickly grown on us. There where essential things to do, such as visit our friends the jeweler and the carpet seller. Over multiple cups of apple tea our gratuity money was quickly spent.

We where due to head further up the coastline to a marina for the upcoming month without guests, but the golf playing crew members decided that a stop needed to be made along the way in Bodrum. The rest of us benefited from this decision as it gave us a chance to see this charming town. Much bigger than Gocek, but still with a small town atmosphere.

The port of Bodrum

On our first night ashore we all had fun dressing to the nines for dinner ashore, compliments of the owner. It was fun to be out of uniform and letting our hair down a bit. And, this time we where the ones being waited on hand and foot, by and endless stream of snappily dressed Turkish waiters.

Back on board several of us sat on the bow of the boat. We soaked in the magical atmosphere of the full moon evening, chatting away as we watched the moons reflections on the surrounding boats and water.

While the golfers went to play their game the next day, the rest of us set off the explore the colorful market area. As one does in a Turkish market, I had my fill of apple tea as I sat and chatted with carpet merchants and shop keepers and admired their wares. Slowly slowly, that is the way even window shopping should be done here. Market meanderings are part of the cultural experience of Turkey.

I spent hours walking around the bazaar and poking my head in nearly every little store, drinking in the displays of hand crafted inlay work, handmade silver, delicate lampshades with colored glass, beautiful scarves, leather jackets. Of course there where the usual displays of "genuine fake watches" and similarly the knock off brand name clothing and hand bags. I left the market empty handed, but content with just the experience.

All of our respective explorations done, it was time for the next leg of the journey to the port we would be spending the next month in.

Turkish delight (early May 2010 )

My first impressions of Turkey was how remarkably similar the coastline is to that of Croatia.

Gocek, the first village we docked at on our arrival proved to be quaint and colorful. As the tourist season had barely started, it had a sleepy atmosphere.

After our passage the crew enjoyed our first meal ashore. For some it was a first taste of the delights of Turkish cuisine.

In between exploring terra firma, preparations where obviously under way on the boat for the start of our summer season and the imminent arrival of our guests. But in the evenings, we strolled through the streets, visiting all the little tourist shops and soon befriending the carpet seller and jeweler. These friendships ended up lasting throughout the season. We made the best of our shore time, knowing that soon we will be back into the rhythm of working seven days a week and long hours, seldom getting the chance to set foot ashore.

All too soon that reality was there as we all stood on the aft deck, snappily dressed in our formal uniforms and ready to welcome our guests. As they stepped on board with smiles and shook our hands in turn, our season ad all that goes with it started. From here onward every day was Monday.

We left port immediately and headed for the first of a series of remote anchorages. As I set the table early in the morning on the aft deck for breakfast, I admired this ruggedly beautiful coastline. The flat sea reflected the morning sun. Behind us the shallower water was a mesmerizing clear translucent blue, giving way to a rocky coastline and a hillside covered in the evergreens and scrubs typical of this area. And,almost every where we went, silhouettes of hills shimmered in the background.

For us girls our days where punctuated by serving meals, making beds, and doing laundry. For the guests the days where punctuated by being served lovely meals, leisurely swims, and baking in the sun on the upper deck.

Passage notes

Leaving Palma

We left Palma with gloomy weather and for most of us in a contemplative spirit as we left behind our friends and a quiet winter season.

Calmer sea as the weather dissipated

First day and night was quite bumpy! Saw the boat heel over so much that seawater washed the side decks several times. Had a few things flying round that shouldn't have - including several fine china plates the system that secured them came undone. The chef had a ceiling panel that fell down and just missed him, and a fire extinguisher went flying off in the engine room. Some of the oranges from the pantry ended up rolling down in the laundry area.

We all sighed a breath of relief later with the sea beautifully flat and calm. The poor chef had his work cut out in the bumpy bits. Several dolphins came to visit us, their joyful antics reflecting our feelings about the better weather.

We just stopped a few hours for refueling at a little port in Italy.

volcanic island we passed for picture ops!

On the next leg of out journey, the captain made a special detour for us at an interesting little island. In the distant past the center of it was blown away, now it has a distinct horseshoe shape. We sailed close by and took pictures but did not actually stop there.





 

Gocek

Arrived at the lovely little village of Gocek. While we did have the chance to do a little exploring, we were by now very busy with the preparations for the arrival of our guests . . .

Gocek

Winds of change

Once again the winds of change are blowing in my life. Outside the sky is grey and rain is falling intermittently. And within the hour, we are due to depart from Majorka.

This heralds a big change. It means that my tranquil winter is over. Our summer work season will start as we cast the lines off and leave this island behind. In winter we worked normal hours and a relaxed schedule. It was a time to catch up on general maintenance with no guests on board.

Knowing how cooped up we felt last summer I made the most of this time. Weekend’s I went exploring and generally I took the time to attend special events and get off the boat. I have told you of many of the fiestas and fun provided by the island. Even in these last few weeks there where a few, including a sheep and goat festival in my favourite little village of Calvia. Yes, it did actually have sheep and goats, and for good measure a few piglets too! The usual assortment of stalls with food and nick knacks abounded.

A week later I went for a drive in the countryside with a girlfriend. Palma is actually a large European city. So the rolling hills in the rural areas with the quaint little villages make a marked contrast. After escaping the city traffic the winding roads had few cars on them. To our amusement we where held up by traffic of a very different nature. Suddenly ahead of us there where half a dozen horse and buggies. Smilingly they showed us when to pass safely around the tricky curves in the road.

Many cyclists travel along this meandering mountain road too. Since we stopped often to take pictures, two guys became a familiar site, passing us several times. They smiled at the two girls out for a drive and we would wave at one another with a laugh.

Now those quiet weekends is a thing of the past. In English tranquil is a word, but in Spanish it is a way of life. As I have a crazy season ahead of me, I hope to take something of the Spanish culture into my future. When this crazy summer is over, I look forward to slowing down and just enjoying a little tranquility in my life, taking some time to enjoy the here and now, and spending time in creative endeavors.

As I stand on the side deck watching Palma get smaller, my mind is already traveling to that future I am hoping for. I see a warm sandy beach down under, and I am burying my toes in the sand.

But for now, it is time to enjoy the new adventures as they unfold. Turkey here I come!

surprising monday

The only thing blue about this Monday is the color of the sky!

After a busy few weeks I realized we had the unexpected blessing of a public holiday.

This I felt was a good opportunity to escape the confines of the boat and go for a walk on the waterfront.

A crisp wind caused a choir of snapping halyards and flags as I passed the miles of boats in all shapes and sizes. Yet despite the breeze it felt good to have the sun on my face.

My sentiments seemed to be shared by the many people walking, cycling and rollerblading down the boardwalk. A pleasant atmosphere prevailed.

An elegant cafe caught my attention. Pleasantly sheltered from the wind, but still in full view of the sunshine and boats, I enjoyed a quiet lunch and used the time to sit and write a while. I was enjoying the present and the past while going through old letters and diaries.

After whiling away a few hours in the pleasant atmosphere, I noticed that the wind had dropped somewhat. Good time to resume my walk. Not much further along I realized that there was obviously a special event I was totally unaware of.

The holiday, Balearics day, was being celebrated. Hundreds of stalls lined the streets, with a bewildering variety of locally produced items. the stall keepers where dressed in traditional clothing. And yes, there was also a stall selling the traditional clothing . .

What a pleasant surprise! Rows and rows of pork sausage hanging from lines, barrels of olives and heaps of cheese. Pottery and beautiful hand crafted toys. My eyes where feasting in the colors and textures as I walked, I passed fragrant hers and spices. The smell of fresh wood shavings as a boat builder demonstrated his craft. The smell of fresh baked bread coming out of the wood fire oven. The disheveled hair and hand prints of flour on her apron gave this stall keeper an authentic air as she busily took loaves out of her oven.








Food stalls provided amply to the crowd. Not only was local tradition celebrated, but also that of the many other cultures represented in the community.

I sat on the edge of a fountain to enjoy a lovely shwarma. Around me people where still wearing their winter coats, but there was a sense of exuberance in the air, most vocally expressed by the happy children.

Carnival in Calvia

Once again the island was getting ready to celebrate. Carnival arrived. This time, instead of looking at the big city celebrations as an outsider, I joined a group of friends at the smaller village of Calvia.



The rustic rural village of Calvia became the focal point of festivities for the whole surrounding area. My friends and I settled in on the porch of the local restaurant Rosita's. The normally quiet streets where teeming in anticipation of the parade. Of course, in true Spanish style, it started two hours late. But, from our comfortable vantage point we where having a good time socializing. Muy tranquil as the locals would say. Thus, in true Spanish style, we did not care about the delay.

It was quite a crisp and cold winters day. we where all bundled up in coats and scarves. This of course, makes the parade quite different from the risque shows of flesh in carnivals like the one I saw in Trinidad many years ago


The advance guard of police vehicles and the noise behind them indicated that the parade was finally underway. the local villages came up with innovative costumes and themes. They varied from delightful home made ones to the more glossy store bought ones. So many people participated that the floats and paraders literally took hours to come past us.



From mad cows to matadors . . .Bewitching little ladies, floating flowers. Cute little Nemo's between a shark or two. and if there was any damsel in distress, she could decide if she wanted to swoon in front of the pint high zorro, spiderman or superman.


Oh, and look, is that Brittney Spears by any chance? In miniture?



A fun day, all the more so for being shared by good friends.

Fiestas and fun, san Sebastian

Around here you do not have to wait long for a reason to celebrate.

The last two months has been filled with fiesta's. First in the line up was the island wide celebrations of San Sebastian, the patron saint of the island. Apparently he was most well known for his demon slaying abilities. Strangely, today the celebrations only reflect the demons - or demones as they are locally known. San Sebastian himself is nowhere to be seen . . .

This is one of the biggest annual celebrations and with special events island wide all week long. It is a very sociable occasion, and demons and all, the whole family seems to come out and celebrate. I had no idea so many people lived on this island!

For those who do not know, Palma is actually quite a large European city. Miles and miles of boats stretch along the waterfront, and the town center has beautiful cobble stone streets and old world buildings. Like most older European cities there are lots of town squares and plazas.

On Wednesday, large bonfires where lit on every square. Smaller ones where dotted all over the place. The tradition is that you bring your own meat and grill it on these public barbecues. Every square also had a live band playing - and believe me, there are many squares! Strangers, friends and family stood shoulder to shoulder. The whole city became a living, jovial and teeming mass of people. Smoke from the many fires drifted throughout he city.


I started off with a few friends but we soon drifted off in different directions. The streets where filled with thousands of people from absolutely all walks of life. I became part of this mass of humanity, continuously moving, from one square to the next, from fire to fire, one band to the next.

The music also came in many varieties. In some squares there where traditional folk music and dancing. Parents walked with kids on their shoulders and older couples smiled wistfully and tapped their feet to the music. But in the larger squares one could also find rock bands, rap techno and almost every kind of music you can possibly imagine - all with a Spanish twist of course.

Naturally the party only really gets into full swing at midnight and then carries on to the early morning hours.

As I stood listening to a band with a U2 like flavor, I enjoyed being part of this community get together. Yet I felt acutely aware of the fact that I stood alone, surrounded by groups of friends and family circles. A stranger, an outsider. I have a fun and fulfilling life, yet at times like these I miss the companionship of a relationship, and look forward to the time when I will be sharing these special moments.

As the fires died down and the smoke cleared, the city was prompt in cleaning up and getting ready for the next round of celebration.

Saturday was the grand finale with the demones spectacularly running thorough the streets in a parade that culminated at the cathedral with big fireworks. I thought that there were many people on Wednesday, this time literally tens of thousands lined up the streets along the route of the parade and mulled together at the fireworks display. The parade itself consisted of hundreds of people dressed as demons carrying huge sparkling fireworks.


Locals run under the fiery shower of sparks, not something I would recommend if you where wearing a good coat! It seems a miracle that people do not get hurt or burnt. I watched with grave concern as those mischievous devils and their flying sparks came close to mothers with babies in strollers.






For this event I was not alone. I was grateful for my friends company, and even more so that he is tall. I could daringly snap pictures of the approaching demones, and then jump behind him to hide from the flying sparks. Despite that I still had to take my coat to the dry cleaners by the end of the week between Wednesday's smokey fires and all the fireworks!



The fireworks display was a fitting exclamation mark ending to the week long celebrations, and I would let my pictures tell the story here . . .