Friday, June 26, 2009

Palma and beyond

From Nice I the captain picked me up and took me to Toulon where I joined the boat and crew. I only knew a few of them ahead of time - but immediately got a positive feeling from all. Later, I realized my first impression was spot on - I truly feel blessed to be working with this group. It is an unusual life where we all live on the job, so getting along is extra important.

We all went over to the ship that had transported our boat, and was on board to experience the amazing offloading. These ships are designed to only transport boats. When they are loaded, the ship is actually pumped full of water until it is under water and the boats simply motor on. Underwater divers weld cradles on the decks securing the boats. Water is then pumped out until the ship is above water. We witnessed the reverse procedure on the other end. We where standing on the boat, looking over the side rails at the ship below, as the ships decks gradually sank under the water being pumped in. The cradles had been removed ahead of time and just lines secured the boats. Finally all the boats where floating and motored off in organized sequence like little ducks. We where off to Palma . . .

As we approached Palma she was shrouded in mist. For early May day it was a little cold and dreary. It was hard to get an impression of my new home. While the weather cleared up the next week was a blur. We had one week to prepare for our first charter and it was pretty hectic. Fortunately the chef knew the island well, so he took me in tow as together we did the shopping in preparation of our charter. I gazed at tree lined streets and beautiful old buildings while trotting behind him at 100 miles per hour as we shopped for essentials such as fancy soaps and shampoos and designer coffee for the guests. After having lived on a small island with probably a population of around 120 000 people total, Palma was a little overwhelming at first. The city alone has a population of around half a million people.

Our first charter that included both owners went smoothly. As crew we got to know one another, the boat, and the owners. While it was hectic it was great preparation for the upcoming season.



Those ten days flew by and soon we where back in Palma. The weather obliged with beautiful sunshine for our return and I could clearly make out the now familiar outline of the cathedral. The pressure was off and we had a whole month to prepare for our next charter. And I had time to explore Palma and the rest of the island.

And explore I did! I drank in the sights sounds and smells of the island. On weekends I took our boat bicycle and cycled along the beautiful bicycle road that stretches alongside the coast. I could not believe the incredible amount of boats of all sizes stretching for miles on end. Then after the marinas The bicycle path just stretched endlessly, and one Saturday I followed it for about twenty kilometers. Once out of downtown Palma and all the marina's I passed a long lonely stretch of rocky coastline with the salt air whipping me from the side. I continued through several little villages until I reached the touristy Playa de Palma. I often stopped to pop in the hundreds of little shops and finally found a nice little restaurant to have lunch at four in true Spanish style. After the lovely sole and my glass of white wine the way home seemed a lot longer. I do confess to being quite worn out when I finally reached the boat.

What ever spare time I had I would wander all over the city, taking random little streets just to see where you would end up. I found art galleries, lush gardens and parks. Old town alley ways with flower bedecked balconies. And yes, laundry proudly flapping from these same balconies. I wove in and out of shops of every imaginable kind. Sometimes incongruously, an expensive designer shop would be flanked by a cheap little nick knack store. I sat in terasse cafe's sipping cappuccinos and people watched. I went to the fascinating aquarium. I went to a circus. Sometimes I did my exploring alone and on other days with a friend. We found a festival in one of the squares one day and I joined in and danced barefoot on the pavement until I had blisters on my feet.




On a different weekend I ended up renting a car with a friend and we set off to explore the west coast. We may as well have been in a totally different country. The rugged green hills stands in marked contrast to the touristly flat beaches of the east side. The little villages seem out of a picture book with their cobblestone streets and narrow allyways. Everywhere against the walls are colorful flowers in pots. We walked up and down winding lanes, and between the buildings the amazing vista's of the hills where visable. It felt like we where walking through a painting, ourselves being another little splash of color added by the artist. For this reason I was not surprised to find many delightful art galleries of local artists.


During the month in Palma we prepared the boat for our next charter, but slowly the hour glass ran empty and it was time to for us to leave. Right now every one is still rubbing their eyes and having coffee. Soon we will be leaving the dock and on our way to Italy. The leisurely pace of the last month will be replaced by working seven days a week and long hours as the owners join the boat. We will be cruising with them on the Italian and Croatian coast for a month and a half. We, however will not be the ones sightseeing. For us it will be heads down and working.

From Italy we will then depart to Turkey where the owners will once again join the boat. In three months from now we should be heading back here to Palma. So for now, I have to say goodbye as we prepare to leave . . .