Saturday, May 7, 2011

Heading home (September 2010)

 


The concept of “home” is a somewhat complicated issue in my life at the moment. Since, for the last year and a half I have been living on the boat that I work on, home has been wherever the boat is. And that off course changes regularly. But, the island of Majorca in Spain has been our “home base” in this time, and it is here that I have made many close friendships. So, by that token, after a season that seemed to never end, we are finally heading home.

As I am writing, we are still underway. We have been blessed with smooth sea most of the way. The highlights of passages to me are sunrise, sunset and the beautiful starry nights.

Early in the passage we had only a little sliver of moon, and at sea, with all city lights out of the way, one can get the most spectacular views of the stars. Standing outside with the pleasant sea air, and the still water reflecting that sliver of the moon I had a feeling of having left all the worlds worries behind. There was a special sense of peace. I felt that it was a moment meant to be shared. Looking up I felt almost dizzy with the amount of stars visible. The milky way stands out bright and clear, and all around of it is just literally thousands of stars. I saw a shooting star . . ., and yes, I did make a wish. (but I cant tell you what for, one is not supposed to tell what you wish for ;-) )





We arrived at the island of Malta at sunrise. I was aware that at one point the island belonged to the British, but I confess that I was unaware of its rich cultural history and was surprised to see this reflected in the stunning architecture as we sailed in.

A dramatic picture of an island seemingly lost in time unfolded before us as we entered this ancient port. Old stone fortifications and the hill with the old city and its eclectic architecture loomed before ud, reflecting the many cultures that have influenced not only the past culture, but also the present. Even the language spoken is a mixture of Italian, Arabic, French, Spanish and English.

As my gaze moved beyond that first vista of a time gone by, I was surprised as the view changed to skyscrapers and cranes. The old and new, side by side. First appearing lost in time, yet, moving along with the times just around the corner.

Once safely docked, I had a brief hour to go for a walk onshore and stretch my legs a little before the next leg of our passage. Through the viewfinder of my camera, clicking away, I saw the island disappear, the brief interlude over.

Soon we all fell easily back into the rhythms of a passage. Three hours watch time and then six hours off. During watch on the bridge we play a little music, and one can chat with your fellow watch officer, or simply sit in companionable silence as we keep a watch out for shipping.

Since apart from watches, we have very little other duties, this has been a chance for me to get lots of rest and recuperate from the long summer of working seven days a week. Soon we will be back in our home port of Palma, Majorca, Spain. There, once again I will be busy with work. But I will also have the freedom to explore the city as I please in my free time, in contrast with a summer of being couped up on the boat. And, I will get to see friends that I have missed all summer.

On the last stretch, with land already visible, the weather changed. The wind picked up and a pretty nasty sea built up. It was just as well we where so close. There is something terrifying and terrific at the same time about angry waves, almost mesmerizing. Admittedly from the safety of the bridge of this large boat there seemed little to fear, but I did recall times sitting in the cockpit of my 28 foot boat with the tempestuous waves curling up behind us in small mountains the size of our mast. While I truly confess that I was scared at that moment, I was also enthralled. There is a beauty in those waves hard to describe.

But, back with the present, we where soon in the shelter of the lee of the island. While the wind was still blowing quite a bit, the sea was much calmer as the familiar sight of the Cathedral came into view. We where all smiles as we docked the boat.

I spent my first night onshore simply walking. I walked down random streets with the reasoning that I can’t get lost if I am going nowhere specific. I ended up at Playa de Espanya, the heart of the city. Found a little restaurant, had dinner and took a taxi home. It feels good to be back in Spain, but it will feel even better when there is truly a place that I will call home. Soon, I hope.