Heading home (September 2010)

 

The concept of “home” is a somewhat complicated issue in my life at the moment. Since, for the last year and a half I have been living on the boat that I work on, home has been wherever the boat is. And that off course changes regularly. But, the island of Majorca in Spain has been our “home base” in this time, and it is here that I have made many close friendships. So, by that token, after a season that seemed to never end, we are finally heading home.

As I am writing, we are still underway. We have been blessed with smooth sea most of the way. The highlights of passages to me are sunrise, sunset and the beautiful starry nights.

Early in the passage we had only a little sliver of moon, and at sea, with all city lights out of the way, one can get the most spectacular views of the stars. Standing outside with the pleasant sea air, and the still water reflecting that sliver of the moon I had a feeling of having left all the worlds worries behind. There was a special sense of peace. I felt that it was a moment meant to be shared. Looking up I felt almost dizzy with the amount of stars visible. The milky way stands out bright and clear, and all around of it is just literally thousands of stars. I saw a shooting star . . ., and yes, I did make a wish. (but I cant tell you what for, one is not supposed to tell what you wish for ;-) )

We arrived at the island of Malta at sunrise. I was aware that at one point the island belonged to the British, but I confess that I was unaware of its rich cultural history and was surprised to see this reflected in the stunning architecture as we sailed in.

A dramatic picture of an island seemingly lost in time unfolded before us as we entered this ancient port. Old stone fortifications and the hill with the old city and its eclectic architecture loomed before ud, reflecting the many cultures that have influenced not only the past culture, but also the present. Even the language spoken is a mixture of Italian, Arabic, French, Spanish and English.

As my gaze moved beyond that first vista of a time gone by, I was surprised as the view changed to skyscrapers and cranes. The old and new, side by side. First appearing lost in time, yet, moving along with the times just around the corner.

Once safely docked, I had a brief hour to go for a walk onshore and stretch my legs a little before the next leg of our passage. Through the viewfinder of my camera, clicking away, I saw the island disappear, the brief interlude over.

Soon we all fell easily back into the rhythms of a passage. Three hours watch time and then six hours off. During watch on the bridge we play a little music, and one can chat with your fellow watch officer, or simply sit in companionable silence as we keep a watch out for shipping.

Since apart from watches, we have very little other duties, this has been a chance for me to get lots of rest and recuperate from the long summer of working seven days a week. Soon we will be back in our home port of Palma, Majorca, Spain. There, once again I will be busy with work. But I will also have the freedom to explore the city as I please in my free time, in contrast with a summer of being couped up on the boat. And, I will get to see friends that I have missed all summer.

On the last stretch, with land already visible, the weather changed. The wind picked up and a pretty nasty sea built up. It was just as well we where so close. There is something terrifying and terrific at the same time about angry waves, almost mesmerizing. Admittedly from the safety of the bridge of this large boat there seemed little to fear, but I did recall times sitting in the cockpit of my 28 foot boat with the tempestuous waves curling up behind us in small mountains the size of our mast. While I truly confess that I was scared at that moment, I was also enthralled. There is a beauty in those waves hard to describe.

But, back with the present, we where soon in the shelter of the lee of the island. While the wind was still blowing quite a bit, the sea was much calmer as the familiar sight of the Cathedral came into view. We where all smiles as we docked the boat.

I spent my first night onshore simply walking. I walked down random streets with the reasoning that I can’t get lost if I am going nowhere specific. I ended up at Playa de Espanya, the heart of the city. Found a little restaurant, had dinner and took a taxi home. It feels good to be back in Spain, but it will feel even better when there is truly a place that I will call home. Soon, I hope.

Time travel in Turkey (June 2010)

After the full day of exploring Ephasus, my crew mate dropped me off in Ladies Beach where I had booked a room for the remainder of my four day mini vacation. Suddenly, I was alone again.

As I walked down the boardwalk, I found myself surrounded by tourists, yet at that moment I was feeling rather lonely and in a quiet contemplative mood.

Many people who have heard my story, have said you are a strong woman. Perhaps this is so, but, truly what strength I have is in the Lord, not in my own ability. Yes, I have done a lot in the last few years, seen many interesting places, and achieved a few things.

Yet, at times it has been a lonely journey. I did not "take on the world" by myself to prove a point, merely to survive. And yes, despite this, I have enjoyed the journey. Which often leads to the mistaken assumption that I prefer being single, prefer doing my own thing. The truth however is that sometimes I start feeling a little despondent about facing so many things by myself. Specially now when I am at such a great crossroads in my life.

This morning I awoke with traces of that slightly gloomy feeling still with me. However, I had decided that part of my holiday plans included spending a little extra time with my devotions. I also brought a few Christian books along. I started reading "Wesley's Gold" by Ray Comfort. It is about John Wesley, one of the co founders of the Methodist church. Reading about this mans spiritual journey really stirred me. I could feel the fog lifting and my spirits rising again. While I do from time to time get a little down, God has been so gracious to me along this journey. The deep seated joy that is founded in Christ always comes trough and and lifts me up. It is at times like this that God reminds me I am never alone!

A few of the nuggets I have been reading :

"As long as you feel your own weakness and helplessness, you will always find help from above."

"On every occasion of uneasiness, we should retire to prayer, that we may give place to the grace and light of God; and then form our resolutions, without being in pain about what success they may have."

With my improved spirits, it has been a lovely time so far. I found a nice comfy restaurant with bean bag cushions and sat facing the beach reading and pottering on my writing project, my mind happily wondering between past, present and future.

The days pleasantly flowed into one another, and I truly enjoyed my time travels. I found a little cafe that made great cappuccino's, and become a regular for breakfast. The friendly waiter entertained me with his great wit. As he inquired about what I was so diligently writing, I explained that I was working on writing about past travels. My diaries and several letters from nearly twenty years ago where spread out on the table in front of me. He would take a moment to come and sit across me to find out where I was in my time travels. Right now, I would say, I am traveling through Greece and getting ready to board the ferry to Israel . . .

I thoroughly enjoyed sitting at the cafe under the umbrella with the bright natural light, the ocean breeze and the bright blue ocean before me. The present was certainly not to be smirked at. And, a chance meeting here may have a profound impact on my future. A couple I met here does stock photography for a living, a career that allows them a lot of freedom and the opportunity to travel. It seemed a divine appointment. Did I finally find that elusive transitional career for the next phase of my life?

The simple pleasure of being in my own hotel room after living on the boat with all my colleagues for so long reminded me how much I would enjoy having a bit more personal space. And of course, caused my mind to travel to my future plans . . .Instead of walking on a beach in Kusadasi Turkey I would be on a beach in Australia. Oh, how I look forward to digging these toes into the sand on Aussie soil!

A delightful few days. But alas, the present is calling me back. Time to go back to the boat, back to reality and the present. Next week we will have guests on the boat again and we will be working seven days a week and long hours again . . .

Exploring Ephesus (June 2010)

Freshly returned form my week end getaway to the island of Samos, another pleasant surprise lay in store for me. Knowing that for the rest of summer we will be working seven days a week and long hours, the captain gave us the opportunity to each take a four day break in the month in port.





I embraced this unexpected boon, deciding that since I would be cooped up on the boat in the months ahead to book into an inexpensive little hotel at a nearby beach.

But first a crew mate and I decided to spend a day exploring Ephesus. A little later than originally planned we left the boat and Kusadassi behind us with the air conditioning blasting in our rented car on this hot summers morning.

Despite our late start, the blazing sun was tempered by a mercifully cooling breeze as we visited the ancient ruins of the city of Ephesus, locally known as Efes. It is amazing how much of it remained intact. Not only are the ruins themselves beautiful, they are set against the backdrop of a spectacular landscape.






We strolled through the column lined streets, overhearing the claims of a guide that this was of the first lit streets, providing safety to travelers. I drank in the beauty and details of the carvings in the marble and the majestic architecture of the amphitheater and library. I also stopped to admire the simple beauty of things such as a wild flower growing between the rocks.

I was grateful for my friends patience as I snapped away hundreds of pictures, stopping for an interesting texture or pattern, an unusual view, a composition that caught my eye . . . After several hours spent traipsing all over the hillside and thoroughly drinking in our surroundings, a cold beverage and meal beckoned us.

A delightful little village nearby provided just that. Here we found a taste of Turkey in a little restaurant. We sat under the shade of the terrace, with pleasant Turkish music playing in the background, still being blessed by a cool breeze. The lovely ambiance was enhanced by a wood fire oven, with a Turkish lady sitting next to it making a steady stream of mouthwatering bread to accompany the lovely fare on offer. A selection of cold "meze" starters was just what the doctor ordered to revive us after hours in the sun.

Altogether a pleasant day, walking where the apostle Paul once walked and experiencing a blend of history long past and the ambiance of present day Turkey.

The magic carpet ride continues (early June 2010)

Kusadassi

After all the quaint little villages and towns we had been in before, our first impressions echoed the jaded view in Lonely planet's description of Kusadassi:

"About 22km southwest of Selcuk lies Kuşadası, which suffers from the double indignity of being a cruise-ship port and a major package-holiday resort. English-style pubs and karaoke bars are filled with football strips signed ‘Elaine and Gary from Tredegar, South Wales’, ‘The Essex Police’ and ‘The Catholic Girls’. Then there are the tattoo parlours and shopping centres."

But as the weeks went by, we started seeing beyond the veneer and Kusadasi started growing on us. I enjoyed going for a jog along the waterfront occasionally after being cooped up on the boat in the prior weeks. And while we naturally did work in the daytime, on our free evenings we became regular visitors to the bazaar. As in all the other ports we where drawn to the smaller, family run businesses. These people became more than familiar faces. We soon had our favorite haunts where we would stop and visit, and bonds of friendship developed. We would sit with them on chairs in the broad walkway between shops, joining in the banter and sipping tea. In our favorite restaurant we where warmly welcomed as friends.

In the line of work, I also got the opportunity to see a different view of the city. I needed to search out a few items for the upcoming charters with the guest, and used the local knowledge of our boat agent. He had me hop on the back of his little scooter. In a country where not even the police wear helmets, weaving through the hectic city traffic was perhaps a slightly risky venture. But I thoroughly enjoyed the opportunity of seeing a bit more of the city. Sitting on the back of the scooter I drank in the sights and smells like a dog with its nose outside of the car window.

On the ferry over

The lovely Greek island Samos

Shortly after our arrival in Kusadasi, I had a small problem that was a pleasure to attend to. For visa purposes, I needed to leave Turkey briefly. The solution was a visit by ferry to the Greek island of Samos. While simply going over for the day would have sufficed, I decided that I may as well make a week end of it.

I even dressed for the occasion, looking like a brochure advertising just such a venture standing on the ferry with my white cotton dress and the wind in my hair.

Samos

Samos

It was a thoroughly enjoyable week end getaway. I noticed while wondering between the shops that despite its close proximity, this Greek island truly has quite a different atmosphere to nearby Turkey. I browsed the shops, ate local food, talked to strangers, enjoying my brief moment of being a tourist on a Greek Island. I lazed next to my hotel pool and read a book.

Samos

But there was something bitter sweet to being in such a lovely location. Surrounded by couples of all ages, I was reminded that this romantic island was not meant to be savored alone. Yes, I am having unique experiences and I see many interesting places. But it does come at a price.

Samos

I have very little personal space on the boat. Most of my possessions are stowed under my bed, its a little like living out of a suitcase. Hobbies such as painting is near impossible to pursue. But the hardest part is the social isolation. We live in a small community on the boat, and excursions such as this one provides a rare opportunity to socialize beyond that small group. I have very little chance of finding love while I am constantly on the move and locked away on the boat. I miss things others take for granted, looking forward to simple pleasures such as an apartment ashore to live in. Room to spread out. Finally unpacking. Time and space for hobbies such as painting.

Lying on a sunbed next to the pool on this me lovely Greek island, this rolling stone was dreaming of gathering moss.

Bodrum and beyond (end May)

As the days ticked by we where before long lined up on the aft deck in our formal uniforms again, this time to wave the guests off. We had an unexpected boon. For the whole next month we would be without guests. We would of course still be working, but from Monday to Friday and with plenty of opportunity to explore terra firma.

Bodrum Marina

We had one last day ashore in the little village of Gocek, a place that had quickly grown on us. There where essential things to do, such as visit our friends the jeweler and the carpet seller. Over multiple cups of apple tea our gratuity money was quickly spent.

We where due to head further up the coastline to a marina for the upcoming month without guests, but the golf playing crew members decided that a stop needed to be made along the way in Bodrum. The rest of us benefited from this decision as it gave us a chance to see this charming town. Much bigger than Gocek, but still with a small town atmosphere.

The port of Bodrum

On our first night ashore we all had fun dressing to the nines for dinner ashore, compliments of the owner. It was fun to be out of uniform and letting our hair down a bit. And, this time we where the ones being waited on hand and foot, by and endless stream of snappily dressed Turkish waiters.

Back on board several of us sat on the bow of the boat. We soaked in the magical atmosphere of the full moon evening, chatting away as we watched the moons reflections on the surrounding boats and water.

While the golfers went to play their game the next day, the rest of us set off the explore the colorful market area. As one does in a Turkish market, I had my fill of apple tea as I sat and chatted with carpet merchants and shop keepers and admired their wares. Slowly slowly, that is the way even window shopping should be done here. Market meanderings are part of the cultural experience of Turkey.

I spent hours walking around the bazaar and poking my head in nearly every little store, drinking in the displays of hand crafted inlay work, handmade silver, delicate lampshades with colored glass, beautiful scarves, leather jackets. Of course there where the usual displays of "genuine fake watches" and similarly the knock off brand name clothing and hand bags. I left the market empty handed, but content with just the experience.

All of our respective explorations done, it was time for the next leg of the journey to the port we would be spending the next month in.

Turkish delight (early May 2010 )

My first impressions of Turkey was how remarkably similar the coastline is to that of Croatia.

Gocek, the first village we docked at on our arrival proved to be quaint and colorful. As the tourist season had barely started, it had a sleepy atmosphere.

After our passage the crew enjoyed our first meal ashore. For some it was a first taste of the delights of Turkish cuisine.

In between exploring terra firma, preparations where obviously under way on the boat for the start of our summer season and the imminent arrival of our guests. But in the evenings, we strolled through the streets, visiting all the little tourist shops and soon befriending the carpet seller and jeweler. These friendships ended up lasting throughout the season. We made the best of our shore time, knowing that soon we will be back into the rhythm of working seven days a week and long hours, seldom getting the chance to set foot ashore.

All too soon that reality was there as we all stood on the aft deck, snappily dressed in our formal uniforms and ready to welcome our guests. As they stepped on board with smiles and shook our hands in turn, our season ad all that goes with it started. From here onward every day was Monday.

We left port immediately and headed for the first of a series of remote anchorages. As I set the table early in the morning on the aft deck for breakfast, I admired this ruggedly beautiful coastline. The flat sea reflected the morning sun. Behind us the shallower water was a mesmerizing clear translucent blue, giving way to a rocky coastline and a hillside covered in the evergreens and scrubs typical of this area. And,almost every where we went, silhouettes of hills shimmered in the background.

For us girls our days where punctuated by serving meals, making beds, and doing laundry. For the guests the days where punctuated by being served lovely meals, leisurely swims, and baking in the sun on the upper deck.

Passage notes

Leaving Palma

We left Palma with gloomy weather and for most of us in a contemplative spirit as we left behind our friends and a quiet winter season.

Calmer sea as the weather dissipated

First day and night was quite bumpy! Saw the boat heel over so much that seawater washed the side decks several times. Had a few things flying round that shouldn't have - including several fine china plates the system that secured them came undone. The chef had a ceiling panel that fell down and just missed him, and a fire extinguisher went flying off in the engine room. Some of the oranges from the pantry ended up rolling down in the laundry area.

We all sighed a breath of relief later with the sea beautifully flat and calm. The poor chef had his work cut out in the bumpy bits. Several dolphins came to visit us, their joyful antics reflecting our feelings about the better weather.

We just stopped a few hours for refueling at a little port in Italy.

volcanic island we passed for picture ops!

On the next leg of out journey, the captain made a special detour for us at an interesting little island. In the distant past the center of it was blown away, now it has a distinct horseshoe shape. We sailed close by and took pictures but did not actually stop there.





 

Gocek

Arrived at the lovely little village of Gocek. While we did have the chance to do a little exploring, we were by now very busy with the preparations for the arrival of our guests . . .

Gocek